Coast to Coast 2024 Part 1 ; Lakes and Overview Overview:
A Coast to coast walk across England, starting at St Bees on the Irish Sea and finishing at Robin Hoods Bay on the North Sea. A distance of 192 miles or 308 km overall. A trek across three national parks in the UK of lakes, dales and moors. Using RAW Travel to source our accommodation and arrange the transport of our luggage between accommodations we traversed the track from West to East, to be completed over 16 walking days with two additional rest days.
Day 0 : Arrival at the Seacote Hotel in St Bees
The Seacote hotel was an ideal option for the first night, given its proximity to the start. However, it became a challenge just getting everyone to the starting line. Many of our group had train delays and indeed Jim did not arrive until 2am by Uber, after his flight from Germany returned to Hamburg with a fault. At breakfast we met a group of American gents we would go on crossing paths with many times during the walk. Then at roll call on the first walking day, we realise
that Rob and Mim are missing. Rob has set his alarm but not changed to UK time!!! They are quickly located, rush to get ready and have breakfast on the march.
Days 1 - 7 (6 walking days. 1 day off in Grasmere)
Starting at St Bees, via Ennerdale Bridge (22.5 km), Seatoller (22.5 km), Grasmere (14.5 km), Patterdale (13.5 km) and Shap (25 km) to Orton (13 km). 111 km for this section
St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge
After the collection of our pebbles and a dip of boots in the Irish Sea we have the obligatory team photo at the start. An airy scamper up above the cliffs of St Bees Head then onto the remote west coast of cumbria, sampling the delights of coastal cliff walking before turning inland towards the lakes. At lunch break on the edge of Cleator township a lady emerges from a nearby house and offers us all the use of her toilet. Many of the ladies were cross legged by this point so the offer was very welcome. After a few missed track connections we began the wearisome plod up Dent Hill. In the high winds it was very difficult to even stand upright and no-one seemed too bothered to stop and take in the views, even though we could actually see the Isle of Man in the distance. The addition of Dent Hill on the first day, seems to be Wainwright's idea of a joke but there is compensation on the trek through the serene Nannycatch Beck on the run into Ennerdale. Tonight's stay is at the Shepherds Arms in Ennerdale Bridge and we are now in the lakes proper.
Ennerdale Bridge to Seatoller
On day two, in the beautiful sunny weather, we had decided to take the track on the southern edge of Ennerdale lake, giving us views of Great Borne, Starling Dodd and Bowness Knott . However, we soon learnt there are many track options and Jim, who had taken the lead for the day, took us on one to the northern edge of the lake and we had to retrace our steps. As we walk the banks of Ennerdale we come across a nude hiker. This elderly, hairy bodied gentleman with his backpack (rucksack for pommies) boots and socks (nothing else) waited at the top of a climb of rocks called Robin Hood's Chair for our group to pass. One or two of our ladies only noticed him only when they got to his waist height and we do not believe their shrieks were ones of delight. Ken later commented that the gentleman was not jewish. What did he mean?
This became our most difficult day. We begin with 14 but finish with 7. As 3 select a shorter walk and 2 others succumb to the heat. Heat in England, Who knew? As a result 4 walked back to the Black Sail youth hostel, for drinks and treatment before continuing to walk back into Ennerdale Youth Hostel and being able to summon a taxi to travel to our next hotel in Seatoller. The remaining group climb up past the great summits of Pillar and Great Gable around Brandreth and Grey Knotts at the valley head before joining Loft Beck descending from Honister pass into Seatoller.
This is reputedly the wettest place in England but fortunately for us it did not rain! Our hotel the Glaramarrara has Wayne Leviston and Robyn Scott rooming together. This will be repeated in various combinations during the trip and is the subject of ongoing hilarity amongst the team. In the evening Graham T and Katie S (who just happen to be passing through) join us for dinner.
Seatoller to Grasmere
Graham T also joins us the following day for the walk from Seatoller through Rosthwaite and onto Grasmere. Once leaving Rosthwaite there is a steady climb across steep craggy fellsides up Langstrath fell to Greenup Edge. The sole comes adrift on Robyns Shoe and various group members from the team have a go at repair with gaffer tape and then cable ties. Eventually a doctor from another walking group ‘operated’ on her shoe, cutting most of it away and the repair lasted till the end of the day. The wonders of the UK NHS.
A long haul with a stop at Lining Crag for lunch, then onto Greenup Edge. Here the group splits 50/50 taking either the somewhat muddy low route via Far Easdale Gill, whilst those with sufficient animal vigour take the high route over Gibson Knott and Helm Crag before descending into Grasmere. Mim proves herself to be a winner at navigation here, particularly bringing the group into the accommodation at the end of the day.
We are in The Inn at Grasmere for two nights. Jim commented on the wonderful names of the Lake District. Such as Lakes and Tarns, Meres and Waters, Woods and Spinneys. Stonethwaite Beck, Greenup Gill, Calf Crag, Pike Garrs and Gibson Knott to name a few. Our day off; Most have an easy day, shopping or eating; however, Jim hires a rowing boat and Mim rows Jim and Rob around the lake whilst they sit perched like landed gentry. It soon became obvious that all meals would have to be booked and ordered in advance for a group our size. After a haphazard start by Ken, Jo took on the role and thereafter it ran like clockwork. She was even able to tell us what we were eating each night, as many of us could not even remember our names, never mind what we had ordered for dinner some 4 or 5 days previously!
Robyn bought new shoes in Grasmere, which surprisingly were a snug fit from the off. Also she managed to find her ‘doctor’ who was staying in Grasmere, returning some of the items he repaired her shoe with.
Grasmere to Patterdale
Leaving Grasmere for a delightful day by way of Grisedale Tarn and open fells. Today, no-one took the high route option over St Sunday Crag. After poor signage throughout the lakes thus far we meet two young chaps erecting beautifully made oak finger posts. Ken helps them erect the signpost using it to point the way to our destination. Note the new signs are being erected prior to the track becoming a national trail in mid 2025. This is the easiest walking day so far and we arrive early at accommodation in Patterdale (Old Water View and Crookabeck B&B) so early in fact, that rooms are not ready and luggage has not yet arrived. We are forced to take long cool beers at the outside bar whilst waiting! In the evening, the promised meal of baked potatoes with a baguette or sweet was somewhat a disappointment. The Old Water B&B had agreed to feed us given Ken had not been able to get bookings at either of the two pubs, The White Swan or the Patterdale Hotel. This did not happen again now that Jo was looking after our dietary requirements.
Patterdale to Shap
Robyn’s cousin Amy (6 times removed?) met us at Patterdale, to take on the hike over Kidsty Pike. Bad weather was forecast for this, the hardest day of the whole walk. Long steady climb up to Kidsty Pike and then a steep descent to Hawswater. And just when you think the strenuous part is over; a difficult walk along the edge of Haweswater. Jim took a tumble and Rod displaying his sensitive caring side observes “ thats why its called fell walking!” Whilst trying to remain standing on Kidsty Pike. A certain hiker commented “This is the first time I've ever experienced wind coming from my back and front at the same time! A second rather smart hiker was heard to retort that they had experienced wind from both the back and front when they had gastro some years previously. There's always one!!!
The second group intended to take the alternative route, boarding the steam ferry at Glenridding then walking from Pooley Bridge. However not even the ferry could run due to the high winds. Hence instead, it was a very full, jolly bus trip to Pooley bridge. Lots of like minded walkers taking the alternative route and a large group of rowdy Americans on a visit to Keswick. By the time we left the bus we all felt we had a much larger group of friends. Both routes converged at the end of Haweswater lake and everyone took time exploring Shap Monastery, before entering the town and buying ice creams at the Co-Op. In Shap, at the Greyhound hotel we received a very warm welcome as we were now with ‘locals’. Robyn’s relative's farm being located almost directly behind the pub!
Shap to Orton
On the short walk to Orton, Dale led the walk with a detour to take in Amy’s and John's Farm. Of course the farmers in our group were beside themselves with glee to be in amongst the sights and smells of a farm yet again and they soon discovered that they had a language in common with UK farmers that the rest of our team could not comprehend.
It was also on this day that we discovered that our resident meteorologist, Dale, has an uncanny ability to predict rain 5 minutes before it starts, allowing coats to be donned in advance. Thankfully this gift was not required on too many occasions as the weather gods were kind to us. The hikers' curse ‘leaving poles behind’ is becoming too frequent. Mim leaves hers at the lunch spot and Michelle in the Chocolate shop in Orton ( just an excuse to go back for more chocolate ) Ken enjoys an oversize ice cream starting a trend emulated by most of the group Before walking the last 3 km of the day down a road to the Westmorland hotel.
Days 8 - 13 (6 walking days, 1 day off). From Orton via Kirkby Stephen (20 km), Keld (21 km), Reeth (18.5 km) and Richmond (17 km) to Danby Wiske (22 km). 98.5 kms for this section
Orton to Kirkby Stephen
Thankfully we had Amy to ferry us to the start of today's walk just north of Orton, in groups of 5 in her 7 seater, Discovery. Amy and her MIL, Janet then continued with us from Orton to Kirkby Stephen and we were able to take advantage of their knowledge of the area, the locals and the sheep. At one farm the group kept the sheep entertained (well distracted) whilst they had their photos taken, for an online sale. Indeed Ken commented that he had never seen so many photographs of sheep. To a townie like him they are just sheep, whilst others in our group know them as Herdwick , Rough Fell, Suffolk, Texel or Swaledale!
Today's walk was reasonably flat, with a stone circle (that looked nothing like Stonehenge), a roman road (no romans seen today) and Robin Hood's grave (this guy must have walked a lot because he appears to be mentioned everywhere!) Of course having not walked together previously, Amy and Robyn chat as though there is insufficient oxygen to support the later activity. Yet again the weather was wonderful and we were very welcomed at the two B&Bs (Fletcher House and Old Croft House) in Kirby Stephen. Our group takes advantage of the early arrival to get acquainted with this magnificent little town and Ken finds a “real ale” pub to settle in. At dinner, yet again it has been noted that we are eating our way across England with three large meals a day. Michelle also stated that she has drunk more alcohol in the past nine days of our adventure than in the past year. Additionally, Rod is carrying his own chilli flakes across the country to flavour his meals, obviously he has a sensitive palate.
Krkby Stephen to Keld
Leaving the delights of Kirkby Stephen behind, a big climb via tarmac roads and then Faraday Gill, up to the Nine Standards Rigg and thereafter across the moors. The upper reaches of this are bedevilled by high quality peat bog. Ken had split the group in two, planning to take different tracks across the peat bog. As it turned out both groups took the same ‘red’ route as this was the one currently being renovated and both groups arrived within an hour of each other.
Fortunately as it had not been raining for a number of days the mud was not soo bad. Ken remembered past crossings with mud up to his knees. Parks contractors were installing a number of wooden footbridges and walkways over the worst parts, in readiness for the grand opening of the national track in 2025. Some of these workers let us cross the uncompleted bridges. Unfortunately this did not quite work out for Rob and he slipped and ended up in a creek. Thankfully the water and spongy moss broke his fall and only his pride was injured.
For the past week we have been passing or being passed by the group of four Americans we met at breakfast on the first day. Today there were only three of them. The fourth had lost a toenail, had multiple huge blisters on both feet and a dodgy knee. He had bailed out and had flown back to the US. Eventually, we arrived at Keld Lodge. Yippee, the halfway point on our journey.
Keld to Reeth
Today there are two track options. Either the old mining route with its industrial landscape, or the valley route along the flower laden meadows of the River Swale. There were not enough takers to form two groups so the whole group followed the valley track. Leaving Keld Lodge we passed the remains of Crackpot Hall and contoured around East Stonesdale to arrive at the river. Morning tea was taken at the Ghyllfoot Tea Room in Gunnerside. Most of our people had the English cream tea on offer and argued about whether the jam or cream should go on the scone first. Apparently, later, having crossed this off her bucket list, Michele now felt somewhat sick and claimed to have a ‘scone hangover’.
Now following field after field in the flood plain of river Swale we became adept at negotiating stone styles and very narrow kissing gates by the end of the day, arriving at the Black Bull in Reeth. Having had some small rooms to deal with, fittings had to be squashed in wherever possible. Wayne had noted that the toilet roll holder was often behind the toilet and threatened that if this practise continued he would stop using it. We never did find out if he acted upon his threat.
Reeth to Richmond
We continue to follow the river swale valley with easy walking through limestone scars, leafy lanes, woodland and rich pastures. With thunder clouds threatening to dump on us any moment, Mim checked the weather on her phone to report 0% chance of rain. She then discovered she was looking at the Melbourne weather. Where was Dale at this moment?
For the past few days we have definitely been in ‘Lord of the Manor' shooting country. And as yesterday there are many many grouse along the track today. We can see Richmond for some time before arrival via a log descending approach Obviously looking forward to our day off in Richmond there was a discussion on how frequently underwear was changed. Wayne declared “I just swap mine with Joanne” (Editor's note: I know for a fact that each evening our group undertook to wash undies and socks as many of our rooms began to resemble steamy ‘chinese laundrys’! :-) )
In Richmond the Luxury Castle B&B was somewhat dilapidated but the Strawberry House B&B, although a walk out of town, was delightful. We got to meet ‘pepper’ the dog. A dog that certainly loves ‘treats’ For our day off in Richmond a group of six went off and had a tour of York, whilst the rest of us enjoyed the delights of this typical Yorkshire town, The castle, museum, Green Howards Museum and the Local Theatre tour. With Dale and Robyn (our group Card Sharps) in a different B & B, Rob and Mim were looking for new players for their card school and promptly cleaned up Bev and Rod with no sign of mercy.
Richmond to Danby Wiske
Leaving Richmond on laneways and through fields following the river Swale, out past the remains of Easby Abbey (yet another destroyed by Henry VIII) and the smelly sewage works (every town has to have one). This time the track passes under the motorway and then the A1, passing to the north of Catterick. The Romans created a military centre here more than 2000 years ago and it remains the largest army barracks in the United Kingdom. At St Giles farm we upset yet another farmer with our presence as we distract his dogs from rounding up the sheep and he has to wait until we have moved on. At St Mary's church some of our group stocked up on bottled water and chocolate bars. Interestingly the ‘honesty box’ was actually an eftpos machine! This led to discussion on how churches use the collection plate these days. Do they pass around the card machine? Today, Mim tries out her new shoes purchased in Richmond. Much better grip than her old shoes but they create a hotspot. What do we say about wearing-in new boots? Anyway by now we have all become adept at managing blisters and hotspots and she quickly responds to appropriate treatment. Crossing more fields with stiles this time of crops rather than sheep, then the laneway into our destination of Danby Wiske
Finishing at Danby Wiske Ashfield House, Serin House Inglenook House and the White Swan Pub. This location must be unique on the C2C. The pub forma a hub around a number of small one or two bedroomed B&Bs (houses with one or two spare rooms.) Anyone booking into any of the small B&Bs is automatically booked in for the one dinner sitting at the pub. The pub only serves food to people booked in there or at the other B&Bs. symbiotic relationship.
Days 14 - 18 (5 walking days) 18th - 22nd
Starting at Danby Wiske via Ingleby Cross (14.5 km), Clay Bank Top (20 km), Blakey Ridge (14 km), Egton Bridge (22 km) to Robin Hoods Bay (28k km). 98.5 km for this section
Danby Whiske to Ingleby Cross.
A pastoral walk today with hardly any gradient. Dale wears his good white hat for the first time. Dale “ I thought I had better wear it since I've been carrying it in my suitcase all this time. Robyn “ If you had left it at home I could have brought more of my stuff!!!” We take our life in our hands crossing a six lane highway just outside Ingleby Cross. The most dangerous part of the C2C walk. Hope this route is corrected before the official opening. Stay at Ingleby House Farm and the Blue Bell Inn. Enjoy yet another meal at the Blue Bell Inn. Thanks Jo.
Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top.Wainstones
Wayne couldn't finish his sausage sandwich at breakfast and this led to numerous jokes throughout the rest of the walk. It's only a little one etc. Then yet another sausage joke when Wayne said his was a major disappointment, and Bev noted that Rod routinely smothers his in Tomato Ketchup. I wish people would leave their private lives at home.
Our team today was split, one for the faster walkers led by Jim and the more leisurely walk led by Patsy. However, Ken, who was with the ‘strollers’, forgot to tell Jim that there was no need to go all the way into Osmotherley and that part of the first hill could be circumvented. An hour into the walk, after taking the longer route, Jim’s fast group caught up with Patsy's leisurely walkers. Many many ascents and descents over undulating moorland hill slopes and woodland.
At Round Hill a large group of Paragliders were launching themselves from the cliffs and following us for part of the route, before then descending into the valley below.
The ‘strollers’ became even more leisurely taking a lunch break at the Lord Stones Cafe. Ken was seen to be enjoying his lunch and especially the Coffee and Cake, paid for by one of his co-walkers. Not long after the cafe there is a track that has a gradual descent to Clay Bank Top (i.e. a short cut). However Ken also forgot to mention this as he knew our valiant hikers would want to climb the Wainstones (and a further two more hills) before the end of the day. (Thank you team)
As we reached the Wainstones we had split into three groups to arrive 30 minutes apart at Clay Bank Top (which incidentally is a descent into a pass with steep hills either side!!) Each group phoned the hotel (also called the Wainstones) which is off the track and a driver came and picked us up.
Clay Bank Top to Blakey Ridge
The next morning at the hotel we broke into groups of 4 or 5 and the hotel driver who seemed to be in great haste and was rather reckless, quickly dropped us back at Clay Bank Top. After each of us regained our composure we commenced the climb to get back onto the top of the moors, almost all of the rest of the day was spent following the course of the now defunct Rosedale Ironstone railway, an elevated track through the boggy North Yorkshire moorland. Just as well the walking and navigation was easy as we hiked through thick fog fog for the whole day and indeed, couldn't even see our destination, the remote Lion Inn, until we were at the front door! The three starting groups were reunited about half way through the day. Dale in the rear group said he knew the front group was close because he could hear Robin. You see that is true love. (editor's note: Noise travels a long way in pea soup fog!) The Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge is a very remote pub, it is 4th highest in the United Kingdom and is very popular. Our team took on the task to dispatch a number of beers before dinner.
Blakely Ridge to Egton Bridge
Today's walk is all downhill. There is an option to continue on the Rosedale Rail Trail but this has become overgrown and the C2C now follows the road. There are a number of Moorland crosses in this section such as Ralph Cross and Fat Betty. Bev continues the tradition of leaving poles behind at morning tea. Thankfully, doting husband Rod realised the poles were missing and retrieved them. To the north of the track is yet another quaint English place name. Great Fryup dale and Little Fryup dale. And yes there is a cafe offering a full English breakfast, which we bypassed. The track now continues across landscape dominated by heather, bracken and bilberry across Danby High Moor and through Glaisdale Moor onto a quiet road into Egton Bridge. Here we stayed at the Broom House, the Old Mill, and the Horseshoe Pub. Eating another wonderful meal organised by Jo at the Postgate Hotel. When told by the Landlady that we could not eat at 7pm, as per our original booking, she responded “we will be there at 7 !” Don't mess with Jo.
Egton Bridge to Robin Hood’s Bay (RHB). The last day.
So onto our last walking day. Some of the group had requested a trip to Whitby and others were not keen to complete a 28 km undulating hike. To enable this and reduce the distance, Ken put on an alternative walk. Taking the train to Whitby and walking south down the Cleveland (now the King Charles III Cleveland) way to join the rest of the group at the Coast Cafe Bar near Hawsker. Also Ken had arranged that one of our former club members, now based in the UK (June Darley), would also join the group at this cafe. Then we would all walk into RHB together.
Another undulating day some over an open moor and then past a waterfall in a delightful woodland setting. The B&Bs in Egton Bridge did not provide lunches, hence the main group set off early for the local CO-OP (IGA) in Grosmont to buy sandwiches and snacks. However, being a Sunday the group arrived there well before it opened. Luckily the cafe in the beautiful woods at Falling Foss Tea garden was open and they enjoyed a lunch stop there.
The two groups and June met at the cafe at the allotted time (2:30pm) and completed the final 6 km into RHB along the cliffs. Just as we had started with a cliff walk some 17 days previously. At RHB we rambled down through the steep cobbled streets to the boat ramp, not in a rush for our adventure to end. Continuing out into the North Sea to throw our pebbles and wet our boots. Thereafter, having the traditional celebration drink at The Bay Hotel, overlooking the sea.
Finally we climbed through the town to the beautifully Victorian appointed Victoria Hotel. To wonderful rooms, a free gin and tonic and yet another excellent dinner. After dinner Bev and Rod had arranged for each of us to give a little talk, poem or song about one of our co-walkers. Ken’s ditty about Patsy is below. By this time a number of other walkers we had met along the way joined in our celebrations.
Ken’s limerick: (not good I know!!)
This lady Patsy hails from Nam-i-bia
She has settled with her man John in Victoria
She speaks german you know
And as a renowned tour guide, will to you show All 9,10,11 or even 12 Apostle - ia
In conclusion: We did it! Everyone completed the walk one way or another. We can't believe how good the weather has been. No significant rain for 18 walking and 2 rest days, then upon arrival at the Victoria Hotel in RHB the heavens opened and the streets were quickly flooded! This rain continued unabated the following day. Also a final note: It has been reported that at least one pebble may have made the journey from St Bees to RHB in a suitcase!
