Friday 17 April
Six paddlers and two fishermen made the long trip to Mueller River Campground: a four-hour drive to Cann River, followed by a further 39 km to Mueller River, with about two-thirds of the journey along an unmade road, taking roughly an hour. On the way in, we were rewarded with the sight of a red deer crossing the road before vanishing into the thick post-bushfire regrowth.
When planning a paddle, you never quite know what weather awaits, and this trip was no exception. We arrived in windy but mild conditions and set up camp at sites 8, 7 and 4 among the banksia woodland, congratulating ourselves on how close we were to the water. We could launch straight from our campsites - brilliant, or so we thought. One eager fisherman cast in almost immediately and was rewarded with a black bream - too small, so back it went to live another day.
There was one other happy camper at Mueller, but he packed up and left on Saturday morning due to wind and rain, leaving the whole campground to us. He had been fishing upriver on Friday from his sit-on-top kayak, but found it too difficult to stay in one position, constantly being spun around by the wind – sit in kayaks are a much better option for longer or day paddles.
Mueller River Campground sits on one side of the inlet, sheltered by old sand dunes. At present, the only way to reach the ocean beach or the far side of the inlet is by kayak, other non-powered boat, or a swim. Powered boats are prohibited.
Saturday 18 April –
With very strong winds making an upriver paddle impossible, we elected instead to walk along the ocean beach. That required a short 500 m paddle across the inlet, followed by a quick change into wet-weather gear - waterproof trousers and jackets to fend off the wind, blowing from the south-south-east and gusting to 101 km/h. Mueller Beach stretched before us in a long expanse of sand, broken by rocky outcrops and thundering waves rolling in from Bass Strait. Parts of the shoreline and the rocks were covered in sea foam thrown up by the wind. To the east, Point Hicks Lighthouse could just be made out through the sea haze. One mussel-covered outcrop even provided fresh bait for the keen fishers back at camp. Eager walkers almost reached Thurra Beach without realising it at the time. At high tide, it appeared that the ocean was washing into the inlet!.
Sunday 19 April –
The wind had eased somewhat, so we set out to paddle up the Mueller River, aiming to go as far as possible. The river winds up the valley through pristine forest regenerating from the fires of 2020, with sea eagles, cormorants and bellbirds resounding through the wetter areas. It was an easy paddle at first, but as we travelled upstream the river narrowed and fallen trees made for more interesting navigation. Eventually we reached the point of no return: fallen trees and fire debris blocked the river completely, and portaging around the obstruction was not an option. Lunch was enjoyed on a rock-lined riverbank before we returned to camp. A quick sortie to the little river that enters the inlet opposite the campground paved the way for a paddle there the following morning.
Monday 20 April –
The day dawned perfect: blue sky, no wind and picture-perfect conditions. The water level in the inlet appeared to have risen slightly, perhaps due to the tide, as it had done a little on Sunday before dropping again. It made launching the kayaks even easier.
We provided a boat escort for Peter Mc to the river mouth for a day of fishing. The little river (it has no name) flows along the base of sand dunes on the landward side, winding past banks lined with tea tree, banksia and reeds. On Google Maps, it appeared traversable for only about 1.5 km due to a rocky outcrop. However, with the water level slightly higher, we were able to navigate the rocks easily and continue upstream until the riverside vegetation made forward progress “interesting” and turning around almost impossible for a 5.3 m boat. Lunch was enjoyed at a sandy riverside clearing, where deer footprints were everywhere. We returned to the river mouth to escort Peter Mc back over the inlet. He had a productive morning, catching six black bream; a collective total of eight fish- enough for a banquet for all.
During the afternoon, the walkers amongst us made a foray into the local countryside, discovering the nearest point for phone reception about 1 km up the road - provided you pointed your phone towards the lighthouse, and walked the road down to the Thurra River, which appeared to have plenty of water. The road to Point Hicks, Thurra and Mueller River campgrounds was closed after the 2020 fires because of damage, reopening in early 2026 as far as Mueller River and Thurra River. While Mueller River Camp Ground was accessible, only a temporary day-use area had been established in the car park above the Thurra River. The Thurra Campground, which comprises 41 sites, reopened in time for Easter 2026, although works are still underway. The road to Point Hicks remains closed. Work crews told us that Parks Victoria staff park at the gate at the end of the campground and then walk the remaining 4 km to the lighthouse each day, where restoration works are continuing.
The evening was spent around a small cooking fire, dining on fresh fish, salads and potatoes before the cold set in and sent us scurrying back to the comfort of our campers and tents.
Tuesday 21 April –
The water level was a little higher again today, although no water appeared to be coming in over the sand at the mouth of the Mueller River.
Thurra River, here we come. It was only a short drive from Mueller River, past the temporary day-use area and down a steep descent to the bridge over the river - built to last a lifetime. To the left lay the mouth of the river and to the right...... ”hmm not much water”. The plan was to paddle down to the mouth first, then return and head upstream on the rising tide - or so we hoped. Given the potential for shallow water, some of the group opted instead for fishing and relaxing rather than paddling. We appeared to be the only visitors there that day.
Restoration works along the Thurra River are not exactly conducive to launching a kayak. However, where there is a will there is a way, and true to form we all launched successfully near the far side of the bridge. Paddling downstream through tannin-stained water and over submerged trees washed down in past floods, we pulled in at the river mouth. Deer tracks crossed the sand and could be seen continuing up the far bank.
Retracing our path, we returned to the bridge and attempted a short paddle upstream, but the strong flow and sandbanks quickly halted our progress. “Abandon ship” became the call, and we continued on foot “paddling” up the river, carefully avoiding patches of quicksand as we headed towards the towering sand dunes - up to 30 m high -standing guard over the river. With no real prospect of further kayaking, and not everyone keen to continue walking, we returned to the bridge and lunched at a picnic site fitted with tables, benches (just for us) and a sign on the far side, facing away from us. While we were there, the workmen delivered a new picnic table to be installed at the site. On leaving, we finally read the sign: Keep Out – Currently Under Construction.
Back at camp, the water level had risen again and now sat only half a metre from the camper steps, leaving the ground decidedly damp. A visit to campsite 8 found Graham considering a levy bank, as a channel of water was heading directly towards their site. Returning with shovel in hand, the levy bank was soon in place, and discussion turned to plans for Wednesday. We had paddled all the local options, the water was rising and the weather looked set to deteriorate. For sites 7 and 8, the decision was made: stay dry and head home.
Shane, on site 4, was considerably above the rising waterline and remained for the final day, planning to undertake the walk to Point Hicks Lighthouse.
Thank you all for a wonderful trip away—Jan & John, Kate & Graham, Don, Shane and Peter Mc. Next stop for our paddling base camps: NSW, here we come!
Avenel Jane – Paddle Leader
PS – At the time of departure site 8 was 10cm under water; site 7 water at the door to where the camper was parked. Rise in water level was due to rain higher up in the catchment area for the Mueller River overnight Friday/Saturday combined with the river mouth being closed and very high tides on Saturday/Sunday.
