DAY ONE
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Moleside Streamside Reserve in the Glenelg National Park our meeting place, a welcome sight after a 7 hour journey. With tents up and briefing complete the evening was spent around the camp fire.
DAY TWO:
We woke at Moleside camp to wet tents from the morning dew, but the clear skies promised a beautiful and warm day. Our first challenge was to fit all our gear into the kayaks, which we all managed, some with room to spare! Next, the drivers headed to our finish point in Nelson at River Vue Caravan Park to park the cars and catch the shuttle bus back. Meanwhile, those left at camp walked to the picturesque Moleside falls, leaving Pat to keep watch over the kayaks.
O
nce everyone had returned, we launched the kayaks one by one. It was a great effort by all to be on the Glenelg River paddling by 10.15 am. Roz had appointed Noel as leader for the day.
We soon got into the relaxing rhythm of paddling as we meandered along the curves of the river in perfect conditions. The birdlife was plentiful and the vegetation along the riverbank ever changing. We spotted many koalas in the trees overhanging the river. Noel chose a pretty riverbank spot for morning tea, and most of us managed to land our kayaks without too much mud on our feet. We then paddled on to the lunch stop at Prichard’s camp where we sat in the shade of the gums. We’d made good time in the morning so it was only a short paddle in the afternoon before we arrived at Shipworth Springs camp, our overnight stop.
Landing our 11 kayaks in an area designed for less than half that number, was no mean feat and it was also a challenge to find a flat area to pitch the tents. However, once we’d settled, there was plenty of time to relax in camp and swim in the river. We all went to bed early after a sensational first day, with the peace of the night interrupted by the grunting of the koalas nearby (and maybe also the snoring of fellow campers?)
Author: Ruth
DAY THREE
Koala grunting and bird calls combined with the rustle of sleeping mats provided the early morning alarm call. Amazing co-operation and ingenuity were required to get our kayaks loaded and back onto the water. Richard C and Ruth, our leaders for the day started with an orientation exercise, giving us a laugh by heading in the wrong direction, hoping we would follow. No one fell for that trick.
Initially we were treated to perfect conditions, still water with mirror-like reflections. As we moved downstream the wind picked up, calling for a little more effort. Changes in vegetation were noted, beautiful gum trees, sheoak forests, then grass trees, providing a feast of different shades of green. Ever so gradually we moved into limestone cliffs, with cave-like formations and stalactites clearly visible. During the day we disturbed many ducks including a rarely seen musk duck (an unusual looking duck which swims low in the water, when disturbed they dive like submarines, surfacing with only their eyes and nostrils exposed -one could be forgiven thinking it was a seal), a few graceful swans and noted eagles soaring high above. There is a real sense of tranquility on this river. Apart from 2 people in a canoe and one fishing boat we have had the river to ourselves.
Our camp for the night was Bowds, overlooking the river. This campsite is extensive so we were spread out, such a contrast to the previous night’s squeezy site where tents were pitched almost on top of each other. With tents up we all enjoyed a relaxing afternoon, swimming, fishing, walking and reading. Since we left Nelson on Monday there had been no phone service, that all changed when we discovered limited coverage a short walk away from our camp.
A cool breeze and a few drops of rain sent us scurrying off to bed, an early night for all.
Authors - Denise and Pat.
DAY FOUR
Strong winds and rain over night signalled the end of glorious sunny days and light wind. Bowds campsite had provided spacious sheltered campsites, official vehicle access only, and a good kayak jetty – shame they forgot to make a ladder for swimmers to access the jetty from the water after a swim - walking through mud yuk!! Our first two days had been spent paddling through brackish water. At Bowds you can taste the salt – yet we were 24km from the river mouth. Baby Brim abounded but no luck with the bigger fish.
We discovered that food stored in the bottom of the boat, under the waterline tends to stay cold, not so chocolate stored above. Solution – place box of chocolates in dry bag in water to cool. Result – salted chocolate! Puts a new light on “salted caramel”. Thank you Roz for some tasty morsels.
Packing up and early breakfast saw us on the water at 8:30am – Josie being the leader for the day. Strong winds eddied through the Gorge, a tail wind, a head wind and in places no wind causing us to meander from one side of the river to the other, seeking sheltered waters or enjoying the “wind assist” when almost storm force winds carried us down an open stretch.
Our first stop of the day was at Patterson’s camp, remnants of settlement remain - old tin sheds and an enormous Walnut tree with a carpet of empty walnut shells strewn under – the wallabies and other wildlife had had a belly full.
After the obligatory “Group Photo” – thank you Ric, we were on our way again. This section of the river winds through steep limestone cliffs where erosion has created caves and stalactites, rekindling memories of Matera, Italy – a beautiful and fascinating world heritage troglodyte settlement.
Morning tea was at Sandy Waterhole in the waterski zone of the Glenelg within Victoria. Excellent boat facilities with a concrete boat ramp – no camping though. Lunch was at the jetty for the Margaret Rose Caves. Unfortunately these caves, which according to Parks Victoria are “said to be the most decorated cave discovered per square meter anywhere in Australia” are closed due to upgrade works required. The expected date for completion was mid 2023!!!!
Crossing the border into South Australia, our final destination for the day was Dry Creek - a free camping area set behind a row of fishing shacks, facilities included flushing toilets, soap and running water! Whilst the shacks provided some protection from the strong wind, they also created wind channels – setting up a tent proved challenging for some. Adjoining the camp ground is a 5km walking circuit. The Dry Creek circuit meanders through herb-rich woodland shaded by swamp gum, manna gum and stringy bark, through the dry creek bed and cliff paintings can be seen from the scenic views over the Glenelg River. A solitary duck sought our company looking for morsels of food – it was quite taken with dehydrated apple, gently taking the apple from my fingers. With strong winds persisting and misty rain drifting in, an early dinner was called for and we sought the shelter of our tents.
Author - Avenel
DAY FIVE
An early start today meant we were on the water by 7.45am and rewarded with perfect conditions, paddling through misty still waters, a far cry from the strong winds forecast. Towering cliffs with gnarly vegetation and interesting cave formations feature as the river winds its way back into Victoria. With Roz leading the way we made very good time. Multiple sightings of musk ducks (we thought they were rare) capture our attention, the male bird has a large bulbous lobe attached to his bill and emanates a musky odour during breeding season. Certainly very different to the ducks we encounter locally.
Flanked by cliffs, there was nowhere for us to have a rest stop so we push on our eyes feasting on numerous shacks which line the waters edge. All shapes and sizes and in various states of dis-repair. Once we pass the Donovan’s settlement the shacks became more prolific, some are very swish.
To our delight we reach Simsons Landing in the Nelson township about 10am with a beautiful sandy beach to exit on. After a relaxed morning tea we hopped back into the boats to finish the last few kilometers - past Bag Island also known as The "Isle of Bags" a small, bushy island named by Major Thomas Mitchell in 1836 because of a pile of stones on its surface that resembled bags of flour. A monument has been erected on the Island which reads “Erected to the memory of Sir Thomas Mitchell who found and named the Glenelg River July 31st and Sandford and Nelson in August 1836”. Past more shacks then around to the jetty, finishing a wonderful journey on the Glenelg River. Thanks to Roz for great organization and to all participants for your company –
Author - Pat
Participants: Roz S (leader), Ruth C, Richard C, Noel H, Avenel, Josie L, Rob R, Richard Mc, Denise S, Graham T, Pat W, and Shane B.
