Our first camp site – Lake Elizabeth near Forrest, set in a deep valley over the ridge from the Barwon River East Branch, the home of bower birds, currawongs, platypus and numerous native birds – no need for an alarm clock at this destination – the birds do it for you. Shane and Don arrived a day prior to experience the challenges of the Forrest mountain bike trails and walks and had 2 days of strenuous cycling/walking under their belt before I arrived. With the forecast of probable rain on Saturday we elected for a dusk paddle on Lake Elizabeth on Friday.
I acknowledge that I am not a walker, painful knees due to meniscus issues and ruptured Bakers cysts had put paid to that dream but time and exercise heals all (I hoped). So when faced with a 1km walk carrying a 15kg backpack (with inflatable kayak) I did not flinch. Shane and Don had done a recci of the path that morning - goes along at a steady pace, then it goes up, fairly steeply before descending to the lake. Is it any worse than carrying a 15kg spray pack up a steep slope on the farm? – probably not – I’ll be right! Famous last words. Climbing the last of the steep part – I must be mad! Who in their right mind does things like this! Take is slow going down I am advised, sudden stops, more weight and pressure on your knees – I must be seriously mad, all that work fixing knees and now I’m going to wreck them! Our destination and experience was worth every single moment of discomfort.
Lake Elizabeth is a very little lake on the Barwon River East Branch, in a narrow valley, formed following a land slip. Surrounded by pristine wet forest, immense tree ferns, blackwoods, one side of the lake is steep sided, fern infested – perfect platypus burrow habitat, the other is shallower, reeds more prevalent, a sandy beach at one spot!
Under Don’s expert tuition we set up and launched our kayaks – inflatables a new experience, easy to get into, one hard stroke and you spin like a top, paddle into the wind? – interesting, but an absolute must have for this experience. My previous encounter with platypus in Tasmania had been fleeting as soon as they hear/sense a paddle in the water they are gone.
Launching, we made our way up the shallower side of the lake and as the sun started to creep lower in the sky we started to observe platypi. First one or two – only their nose and top of the head could be seen as they swam along the top of the water, before a sleak body duck dive out of sight. Once at the top of the lake a gentle breeze pushed the kayaks back to the start meaning very little paddling, and as the evening progressed more and more of these amazing animals could be seen. Don observed one following in the wake of Shane’s Kayak. Platypus are supposed to be solitary creatures – this venue would certainly question that.
The return trip over the hill was not as arduous, as the initial climb is shorter. We passed a “Group Tour” making their way up to the lake (a tour operator has 2 Canadian Canoes on the lake) 2 guides with ? 12 guests. It made us appreciate even more how priviledged we were to experience the platypus on our own.
Friday evening brought light rain – evening mist the precursor for something else! Yes it rained, exhausted cyclists/walkers woke to large puddles and the threat of more rain. A quick breakfast, shared with the resident bower bird (turn your back and he will help himself to cereal) and Currawong, packing up a wet tent – yuk we headed to our next destination – Aire river via Apollo Bay and the Great Ocean Road.
Our trip over the Otways was obscured by rain, mist and low cloud – very similar to the Strezelecki’s. They have some of the same issues too – ragwort, thistles, blackberry and land slips, with recent evidence of, and current repairs being made to roads as a result of the latter. Coming down to Apollo Bay the sky cleared but as we went over towards Cape Otway light showers again showed their unwelcome heads.
Aire River East campsite is beautiful, well appointed campsites, spacious or tiny – the latter catering for the Great Ocean Walkers, and sheltered by old sand dunes on the other side of the river. It is a short walk (500m) to the bridge where there are 2 boat ramps and a sandy area further along for swimmers or to launch a kayak. Across the bridge is the Aire River West campsite, equally lovely but some sites would be very exposed with the prevailing winds directly off the ocean. For Telstra customers there is no reception at this campsite, Optus 2 bars!!!!!!!!!!!
With the sky looking like it was clearing, and from our location a gentle breeze, we set off up the river to explore two lakes – Lake Craven and Lake Costin. Thick reeds line both sides of the river and most of the first lake. Once out of the shelter of the reeds we discovered our gentle breeze had some muscle, keeping to the lea side of the lake was the order of the day. Ducks and water fowl abounded, a solitary pelican. Leaving Lake Craven we rounded a headland and made for Lake Costin, wind at our back – enjoying the moment as it was to be hard labour on the return trip. An old characterful farmhouse sat above Lake Costin, old well built sheds and older less well built sheds still stood, machinery rotting away under a stand of cypress. It appeared deserted.
With the water becoming too shallow we turned into the full force of the wind. As you turned beam on the wind pushed you further up the lake – it was challenging for all and I was very pleased to have experienced paddlers on deck. Head down and paddling hard to get back to the headland we then had the wind behind us causing wave assist over Lake Craven which although a welcome relief provided its own set of challenges. Returning back to the launching spot we paddled down to the mouth of the Aire River. We later discovered the mouth of the river had closed due to lack of flow and had been artificially opened on the Thursday prior to our arrival, dropping the water level by about 1 meter. As we approached the mouth of the river I thought there were people standing in the river, another thought it was penguins – no it was the remains of an old jetty or bridge.These piles are the remains of an unsuccessful attempt to build a jetty extending from the river mouth out to sea. The ocean proved too rough for the project to be successful. In the early days those relying on shipping had to keep the river mouth open using horse teams and equipment to clear the sand away.
Three weary explorers returned to camp and a solid nights sleep. Our final day was spent exploring the Aire River – as far as we could go with a side excursion to Lake Horden on the Ford River. The first few kilometers of the river were again reed lined banks, then opening onto farm land and finally revegetated riverbanks which provided complete protection from the wind. Passing under the Great Ocean Road in the Glenaire Valley we continued upstream, meandering through fallen trees, a family of koala’s greeted us with the familiar growl, a joey tucked into his mothers arms was a delight to see. Pretty yellow flowers and streamside blackberries abounded in places. Finally, our path blocked by a tree fully across the river we stopped for lunch before returning back to our campsite.
Being on the Great Ocean Walk route, a number of walks are possible from this location.
I would rate this weekend as 4 stars out of 5, losing one star because it rained. Would recommend this venue and location highly.
Avenel Jane - Paddle Coordinator
